Today after church and dinner, several of us went out into the Old City to wander around and look at things. The merchants there all love and recognize the BYU students. One jeweler made a sample ring for my roommate, Peri, right there in his shop while we watched, and told her to show everybody and let them know where she got it. Then he walked us over to a little restaurant next door and had the owner show us a cave that he had discovered. Apparently this guy was going to dig out a restroom for his shop and ended up discovering a 2,000 year old room that had been built by Romans and was filled with sand and rocks. It is now a nicely lit room with couches and tables and all of the original stone. He told us that he had spent a year going in at night to dig it (apparently that was illegal). It doesn't seem to be too much of a problem though, because now that it's all dug out and furnished, he advertises it on his flyers.

The highlight of the day for me was when a Palestinian man stopped three of us on our way home to talk. He was in his sixties or so, and told us that he had been born in West Jerusalem (the part that is now the Jewish half). He remembers his family evacuating his house during the 1948 war. It was really amazing talking to him and hearing his side of the story. It makes me really glad that I read that Thomas Friedman book, because this man was throwing out names and events and I was able to follow and understand everything that he said. He also told us about celebrating Ramadan. He has fasted every day until sun-down for several weeks now. He says this year has been unusually difficult because it has been extra hot. I have a hard enough time with skipping two meals once a month, so I can't imagine the dedication that it would take to fast everyday for a month.

Also today, I saw a young boy clutching a small plastic Palestinian flag. It's really amazing to see everything I read and studied about in real life. So far, one of my favorite things about being here is seeing the people out on the streets. I've seen veiled Muslim women in their long black clothing, men in long robes with keffiyehs, and Orthodox Jewish men with the side curls and black hats and coats.

The Center is absolutely beautiful. I love standing on the balconies and being able to overlook the entire city. I can look down and see the Kidron valley separating the Mount of Olives from the Temple Mount. This was the valley that the Savior walked across to go from the city to Gethsemane. Being in this land where so much has happened, it is very easy to feel the Spirit because everything is so much more real and tangible. I am so grateful to be here!