Shana Tova!

Last night, we went and visited the Western Wall for the beginning of the Jewish Sabbath day. Since it is also Rosh HaShanah right now, it was a gigantic party. Rosh HaShanah is the Jewish new year. When you get to the wall, it is separated into two parts with a barrier in between. The left (and larger) side is for the men, and the right side is for the women. On the men's side, it was packed with men of all ages in white shirts and kippas or big black hats(the men are required to have their heads covered). They were loudly singing and dancing to songs in Hebrew. Some of the guys from our group joined in and we could see them across the way jumping and dancing and singing along.


On the women's side, for the most part it was more reserved. Everyone would take turns walking up to the wall to touch it and pray. All of the cracks in the stone are filled with tiny pieces of paper on which people have written prayers. After awhile though, a group of young women started a dancing and singing circle. Several of us from the Center stood with them and clapped along. It was really fun to watch them because even though we couldn't understand the words that they were saying, to me, they seemed exactly like all of my friends back at home. I guess girls act like girls no matter where you go.

It seems like the entire city has been celebrating the entire time I've been here. In addition to the Israelis celebrating Rosh HaShanah, the Muslim people are having a holiday as well. We arrived towards the end of Ramadan, and now that it is over, there are three days of feasting and celebrating (Id al-Fitr).

Today after church, we walked as a group to visit the Garden Tomb. It was really cool going to it, because to get there, you walk through a really loud, busy, and smelly section of town. Then you turn down a little side street and enter a large beautiful garden with lots of greenery and nice benches and shade. We were given a tour of the area, culminating with a visit to the tomb (possibly the tomb...the exact location is not know for sure). We all looked in the tomb, and then sang some hymns as a group. We then had some personal study/journal writing time there. The garden is managed by a Christian church (from England I think), and they have asked that we not bring any restoration scriptures or material, so our studying is supposed to be from the Bible only while we're there. I'm really glad that the garden is so close, because I'll be able to go there several times while I'm here.

Rosemary (at least I think it's rosemary) hung throughout the Old City for Ramadan.

West Jerusalem at night.

The city behind me is Bethlehem.

On the ramparts of the Old City.

This is the view from the center balconies at sunset.

Today after church and dinner, several of us went out into the Old City to wander around and look at things. The merchants there all love and recognize the BYU students. One jeweler made a sample ring for my roommate, Peri, right there in his shop while we watched, and told her to show everybody and let them know where she got it. Then he walked us over to a little restaurant next door and had the owner show us a cave that he had discovered. Apparently this guy was going to dig out a restroom for his shop and ended up discovering a 2,000 year old room that had been built by Romans and was filled with sand and rocks. It is now a nicely lit room with couches and tables and all of the original stone. He told us that he had spent a year going in at night to dig it (apparently that was illegal). It doesn't seem to be too much of a problem though, because now that it's all dug out and furnished, he advertises it on his flyers.

The highlight of the day for me was when a Palestinian man stopped three of us on our way home to talk. He was in his sixties or so, and told us that he had been born in West Jerusalem (the part that is now the Jewish half). He remembers his family evacuating his house during the 1948 war. It was really amazing talking to him and hearing his side of the story. It makes me really glad that I read that Thomas Friedman book, because this man was throwing out names and events and I was able to follow and understand everything that he said. He also told us about celebrating Ramadan. He has fasted every day until sun-down for several weeks now. He says this year has been unusually difficult because it has been extra hot. I have a hard enough time with skipping two meals once a month, so I can't imagine the dedication that it would take to fast everyday for a month.

Also today, I saw a young boy clutching a small plastic Palestinian flag. It's really amazing to see everything I read and studied about in real life. So far, one of my favorite things about being here is seeing the people out on the streets. I've seen veiled Muslim women in their long black clothing, men in long robes with keffiyehs, and Orthodox Jewish men with the side curls and black hats and coats.

The Center is absolutely beautiful. I love standing on the balconies and being able to overlook the entire city. I can look down and see the Kidron valley separating the Mount of Olives from the Temple Mount. This was the valley that the Savior walked across to go from the city to Gethsemane. Being in this land where so much has happened, it is very easy to feel the Spirit because everything is so much more real and tangible. I am so grateful to be here!